No rain!!! Today we biked predominantly west, still following the Mississippi River as we get close to its origin. We have been on or near the river for over a week, and have been able to see it transform from a major industrial artery to a fairly small river with no navigable components. Tomorrow I think we head away from the Mississippi, continuing Northwest toward North Dakota.
Today we passed through farms and more farms; very flat. We are staying in a campground on the banks of the river; quite beautiful. Not much else to report.
Today we started the day going to an MS day treatment program. There were about 50 quite advanced MS patients, who come to the center between 1-4 days per week. The center provides activities, PT/OT, counseling; it was impressive how positive the clients were about the program. The residents have been following our ride, exercising how they can, and assigning equivalent distances to match us. We were treated like royalty, and got lunch as a bonus.
The ride started around noon, and was 60 miles due north. Not surprisingly, it rained all day. It was flat and fairly easy except for the weather. We are staying in a “bicycle bunkhouse”, a farm that has been rearranged to be a haven for cross country bikers. Great birds, wonderful host, and a full meal.
On Friday we biked from Wabasha into Minneapolis, a nice 55 mile ride. Much of it was on a bike path, as the area near and around Minneapolis is the most bike friendly place I’ve seen. We had a 2 day break here; on Saturday we did a service project, painting the outside of a house for a disabled person with MS. In 3 hours we had the place mostly painted; definitely not professional, but nice and appreciated.
The last couple of days, Kathy and I have also explored Minneapolis. Except for the extreme cold in the winter, it seems like a very pleasant place. Many ethnic neighborhoods, great areas for restaurants, and a riverfront that has been converted from a flour milling center to a recreation spot. Much of the old infrastructure is still there, converted either to museums or lofts. Evidently the location of Minneapolis was predicated on the presence of St. Anthony’s Falls, which provided power for mills from the 1840s to the 1960s. The falls has been completely altered to create a stable power source. We toured the Mill Museum, housed in the remains of one of the largest mills along the Mississippi. It was surprisingly fascinating.
Tomorrow we visit an MS day center, then leave around noon for a 70 mile ride northwest, starting our 2nd half of the journey.
Today is Day 30 of the ride; 39 more to go. We rode 70 miles along the Mississipi. The upper river is much different than that in Tennessee or Louisiana; much of it is so wide it looks like a lake. It is still a transportation focus however, with huge barges and container ships slowly moving downriver. It was warm finally, and the ride was fairly flat. Construction made parts of the ride slow going, but finished in Wabasha Minnesota. Went to the National Eagle Center, which is basically a nursing home for distressed eagles. Watched one tear apart a rabbit; put me off rabbit for at least a little while.
Tomorrow we cross the river again to Wisconsin. I think the only reason for this is to add another state to our list, but the ride looks nice though quite hilly. Heading for Minneapolis Friday, and 2 days off biking, which will be much appreciated. Minneapolis is almost exactly the halfway point for the journey.
Today we rode along the Mississippi northward to Minnesota. On either side of the river are a succession of very steep Bluffs which we climbed and then dropped down from. This made for quite challenging riding; the totals for today were 84 miles and 3000 feet of climbing.
The upper Mississippi is incredibly beautiful. Everything is flooded however; for the last 30 miles we rode along a train line that had been flooded a couple of weeks ago and is unusable even now. Where islands used to be, you just see trees coming out of the water. Trailers along the side of the river have stilts built under them to keep them from washing away.
Tonight we are camping in a city park. There is no Internet or cell phone coverage in most of of Brownsville which is where we are. Fortunately, like all small towns, there is a bar with Internet service, which is where I’m sending this from.
Last night we stayed in Oxford Junction (city hall in pics); no cell and no internet connection. After 95 miles we stayed in a senior center; the director was 89, and gave us a history of the town, which was basically one of slow decline. He had been mayor, owned a large movie theater, a restaurant, and 2 businesses, now all gone. The senior center attracted 40-50 seniors for dinner every night, now down to 2. This has been the same pattern in all the small towns we have passed through; thriving at one time, dying now. Not sure what the lesion is, but part of it is the industrialization of American farms, which now require far fewer people to do the work of many previously.
Yesterday we crossed the Mississippi into Iowa, which in the Northeast corner is hilly and beautiful. Today we road 94 miles through windy and hilly terrain, and passed through the area where Field of Dreams was filmed. I tried to walk off into the cornfields and disappear a la James Earl Jones, but the corn was only ankle high. Still great fun. For those who have not seen it, Field of Dreams was made in 1989 and is basically a redemption story about a disaffected son and aloof father. It is incredibly sappy, but made an impression on me, partly because my relationship with my father was tenuous at that point. Relating to Kevin Costner is always a positive experience in any event.
Tomorrow is another long and hilly day into Minnesota on our way to Minneapolis Friday night.
Today we woke to sparkling blue skies, and very little wind. We only covered 56 miles; it was great, and I set a personal record for riding the first 35 miles in less than two hours. We rolled in to Henry quite early, just across the Illinois river. Just as we found our camping spot along the river, the clouds embraced us and we were in another storm. The river just recently fell from flood level; our camping spot was covered in more than 10 feet of water just 3 weeks ago. The banks are still overflowing however, with lots of tees growing out of water, docks partially submerged. I decided to punt and stay in the one motel in town; it too is on the water and was partially submerged; evidence of flooding is everywhere.
I had not realized until this trip what a hazard dogs are to bike riders. Everyone has a disaster story of being chased, knocked off their bike, or bit. Today one of my colleagues was chased by two dogs, knocked down, abraded in multiple places, broke his thumb and bruised his shoulder. He is hoping to continue in any case. Anyone reading this who knows me knows I am clueless about the positive attributes of dogs; certainly this trip is not enhancing their attractiveness. Many of the riders who have been attacked have dogs of their own; this is a demonstration of cognitive dissonance that completely boggles me.
Tomorrow is our last night in Illinois; then we enter Iowa and start the northward journey to Minnesota.
Last night we camped during a monster storm. Enough rain fell that the entire camping area was covered in at least an inch of water; needless to say, everything is soaked. This morning, we started on what was billed as an easy 64 mile day, but the rain continued and a cold wind was coming from the Northwest at about 30 mph; exactly the direction we were biking. There were whitecaps on the lakes that previously were corn fields. On the plus side, there were windfarms throughout the route with the blades rotating faster than I’ve ever seen.
This evening is clear and warmer, but rain is due again tomorrow and for the foreseeable future. I was talking to a local at dinner; planting dates have been pushed back more than a month until June 28 because of floods; if planting does not occur by then then the crop season is lost. So, I guess there are bigger problems than a soaked tent and sleeping bag.
Jeremy Bikes NEALS 30th Anniversary Ride 